I think I have a bad fuel sending unit but how do I know 100% that is the problem before dropping my gas tank?
I have a 2006 v6 SR5 2WD 4Runner. When I fill up my gas tank it reads 3/4 full. I know the tank if full because of the amount of gas it takes to fill up. It’s only takes about 150 miles for the gauge to go from 3/4 full to empty. I drive it on empty for about another 200 miles before I fill up again. I read on a forum to try chevron Techron fuel system cleaner to fix the issues. It said sometimes the fuel sending unit can get gunked up. It work for about 2 months before the same issues started happening again. So do I go full send and drop the tank to replace the sending unit? Or is there something else I should try first?

I posted this in 4runners.com have yet to get a response hoping for better luck here. thank you for your time
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MAF senser has already been cleaned, no significant vacuum leaks,
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Hello I'm currently working on finding the cause of this code. I believe that knowing the proper values for these sensors would help me pinpoint the problem.
*oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 is reading 0-1v, which I believe is functioning as it should. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
*O2FT / Oxygen Fuel Trim bank 1 sensor 2 reads 99.15% at what I what I believe is at idle(I as of now only have information to work with now, not the physical scanner and vehicle.
*AF FT / Air Fuel Fuel Trim bank 1 sensor 1 reads a value of 1 with no unit. I believe this is the fault of the scanner not being completely compatible with the 4runner. If you know what the proper vale should be please let me know.
* AFS / Air Fuel Ratio Sensor bank 1 sensor 1 reads between 2.8 - 3.8v which I also believe is the proper value for this sensor.
I plan to use these values to help me go over these steps presented in another forum.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/141851-p0171-lean-bank-1-question.html
1999 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L, Eng Cfg V6, Eng Des 5VZFE, USA/Canada
Hotline Archive With OEM Direct diagrams, components, TSBs, and R&R procedures
Number: 482996 Vehicle Application: 1998 4Runner 3.4 1999 Tacoma 3.4 1999 4Runner 3.4 2000 Tacoma 3.4 2000 4Runner 3.4 2000 Tundra 3.4
Customer Concern: Has a check engine light on and a code P0171.
Tests/Procedures: 1. Monitor the fuel trim readings at idle and at 55 MPH driving down the road. If the numbers are low at idle but climb on a part throttle cruise, the airflow meter could be reading low or it may also have low fuel pressure. The mass air flow sensor grams per second should be 3.3-4.7 at idle and 12.9-18.3 at 2500 RPMs no load, if the readings are low the sensor could be bad.

1. Monitor the calculated load reading on a wide-open throttle acceleration. The reading should go to 85% or more. If not, then the airflow meter could be faulty.
   
2. Monitor the oxygen sensor inputs, both front and rear oxygen sensor signals. The oxygen sensor should not stay high or low voltage for extended periods of time. If the oxygen sensor shows low voltage and the fuel trim readings climb, check the performance of the oxygen sensor.
   
3. Check the vehicle for a vacuum leak by spraying carburetor spray around the intake manifold while watching the fuel trim readings. If the readings change, there is a vacuum leak. Tech Tips: If fuel trim readings are high at idle and go down on a free rev, there is a vacuum leak. If the fuel trim readings are high at idle and at cruise, suspect fuel injectors.
   

Diagnostic Codes P0171
Confirmed Fix 225 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 9 - Engine Air Filter, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 4 - Oxygen (O2) Sensor(s) 2 - Fuel Pump 2 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 1 Sensor 2 (B1S2) 2 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 1 Sensor 1 (B1S1) 1 - Front Oxygen (O2) Sensor 1 - Vacuum Leak 1 - Fuel Injector(s), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 1 - Cruise Control Vacuum Line 1 - Intake Manifold, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 1 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure 1 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor O-Ring 1 - Exhaust Pipe, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 1 - Air Intake Tube 1 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Throttle Body 1 - Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Sensor 1 - Engine Vacuum 1 - Oxygen (O2) Sensor, Bank 1 Sensor 2

So i just bought a stock 2011 gx460 and after the first distance trip my back (and 2 other passengers' backs) are in bad shape. It seems like the lumbar is in the wrong spot. All 3 of us are about 6 foot and range from 165-215 lbs. Reading forums i see some similar complaints but I'm really disappointed in a vehicle intended to be a luxury 4runner. Do other people have this problem and how do you deal with it? I already tried the seat jackers and that is a bit better on the leg support but doesn't help the bar pressing into my back. I also tried disconnecting the anti whiplash cable as seen in the forums with little effect.

This is a really good subreddit with lots of helpful people and entertaining/informative car discussion. However, despite all the activity here, there are many submissions that just fly right by with no replies, or at least no useful replies. It's not that people didn't see your question or didn't want to help; it's usually because the question was way too specific for a general car forum like this one.
Examples of poor questions (I'm making these up, not singling anyone out lol): "Looking for a 2nd gen 4Runner. What issues should I look out for?" "Mazda CX-30: enough headroom with a moonroof?" "Mk7 GTI carbon buildup?"
There are active subreddits for all of those vehicles where people who actually own them and know best will be able to give you way better answers. Here you might get lucky with someone who knows, but you probably want more than one answer to make sure that person's not full of it.
I guess that all seems kind of obvious to most of us, and I don't think posting this will really do anything to help. I just feel kind of bad for people who come here looking for help or advice and don't find it.

Hey Forum,
I am looking at this beautiful 4Runner and am always interested in how the frame looks. The T4R at this link at first looks AMAZING, but then after looking closely, it looks like it the undercarriage was spray painted. I want to know what you smart folks think about this. Scroll down the undercarriage photos and notice the overspray, let me know if is concerning at that high price. https://davisautosports.com/for-sale-temp-4runner-1
Billy

We are two weeks out from the delivery of our ORP. Of course up until this point it has been pure excitement. However, upon looking at mods and forums, I keep coming across post of people having steering wheels shakes around 50-60MPH.
I've seen people talk about road force balancing, rotating their tires from front to back, and ost of the post come to the conclusion of, "I've just learned to accept it." You of course see hundreds of 4Runners on the road everyday where I live and I think, there is no way everyone just deals with this issue.

1. Does your 5th Gen have the steering wheels shakes?
2. If it does/did, how did you solve that problem?

We are two weeks out from the delivery of our ORP. Of course up until this point it has been pure excitement. However, upon looking at mods and forums, I keep coming across post of people having steering wheels shakes around 50-60MPH.
I've seen people talk about road force balancing, rotating their tires from front to back, and ost of the post come to the conclusion of, "I've just learned to accept it." You of course see hundreds of 4Runners on the road everyday where I live and I think, there is no way everyone just deals with this issue.

1. Does your 5th Gen have the steering wheels shakes?
2. If it does/did, how did you solve that problem?

I have a '22 ORP in Army Green that is basically stock. I'd really like to level/lift it and switch the rims and tires. Ive been browsing 4runner forums for weeks trying to decide on the best combination of all of these and am just stuck.
For rims, I've decided on Method 703 matte black, 0mm offset.
For tires, I've decided on Falken Wildpeak All Terrain in the 265 (stock) size. I live in the PNW and having a tire that performs well in the wet is a necessity. Wildpeak reviews sound second-to-none in this category. I looked at their 275's and 285's and they are HEAVY. I primarily drive on-road and don't want to take a hit to the mpg or make the vehicle more sluggish.
That leaves the level/lift. This is where I'm most stuck. I could get Bilstein 5100 and just level it- raise the front 0.85 inches and call it good. But I'd like to go a little bit higher. The next notch up is 1.75 inches for the front. I would almost certainly need a rear spacer but I DON'T want to have too much wheel well gap in the rear. I hate that look.
​
Has anyone been in a similar dilemma or have pics of their own ride with a level/lift kit or Bilstein setup? Any recommendations here? Thank you.

Hey guys, basically the title.
Looking to see the most neg offset I can get for 8.5in wheels on a 265/70R17 for a 5th gen 4runner.
I did see the fitment guide picture on the 4runner forum but it mentioned that the compatibility colors were for stock offset and I would like to go as negative as possible on that as I am not planning on upgrading my suspension any time soon and will stay stock in that regard for now.
I would just like to get the biggest tire and wheel combo I can get with the most offset without any rubbing in the mean time. I was looking at some 17x8.5s with a -10 offset and wasnt sure if they would fit and want to know what you all have previously rolled on stock so I can try to make an informed decision on what would work.
Thanks!

My 4Runner is approaching 31.5k miles it’s a 2018 SR5 and I’ve been trying to stay on top of all the maintenance. I read in the manual that it said I need to change out the two diffs fluids, transfer case fluid and transmission fluid. I googled the forums about it to get a better idea of the costs and what the service entails and people are saying that 30k is overkill and to avoid it till 60k or even 100k. I rarely off road it and only use the 4wd heavily when it snows, otherwise I’m commuting in it and driving it moderately aggressive. I changed out a lot of the parts on it, Intake, exhaust, upgraded brakes, suspension, tires etc. I noticed sometimes it takes a bit for the transfer case to engage the 4wd and the tranny shifts fine for the most part with a few hiccups here and there due to the weird gearing on the highway. I’m leaning towards getting the service done but I’m unsure if I should go to the dealership or go to a local indie shop and get it done, I’ve read horror stories about it being done incorrectly. What are your thoughts on this and how I should approach it? I just started going back to school again and funds are a bit tight at the moment so I would love to go to a local shop I trust but if this is something I should only do at the dealer then I’ll bite the bullet.

So I read on a forum that apparently some of 99 4Runners (mine is a v6 with 2 cats) are set to California smog regulations and they don’t take regular 02 sensors and they have A/F sensors instead. The sticker stamp under my hood says it’s California regulations. I don’t get why this system has to be confusing but I just wanted to know if I HAVE to get those A/F sensors or could I get just regular 02 sensors considering I live Texas. Is it strictly just a regulation thing or is it a performance thing? Part numbers are greatly appreciated please!!

First post here, I know most of yall are not going to like this but I'm asking for safety reasons. If I am putting a 3" BL on a 3-inch suspension lift only on the front of my useless RWD 2001 4runner to squat it, what parts do I need to do it safely/what do I need to extend/modify? I have a TORCH 3" Front Leveling Lift Kit, a KAC Front Upper Control Arms, Front Upper Control Arms for 2-4" Lift, and Freedom Offroad Front 3" Lift Struts. Do I need to get extended brake lines, radiator hoses, etc? I've been searching on forums and can't find much about it. Thanks in advance for any help!

Hi everyone. I've read on several forums that 5th gen springs are compatible with 3rd gen 4runners. I have a 2002. I managed to get some 2018 TRD pro springs for $35 so figured its worth the shot. Has anyone installed 5th gen springs front and rear? Did it lift at all or remain stock height? My plan is to install Bilstein 4600s with the 5th gen springs. I've watched a few videos and it seems like the 5th gen rear create about 1.25inch of lift. Is this too much lift for the 4600s? should I got with 5100s instead? I'm not planning to lift my 4runner since I don't need to and Id rather save money by getting 4600s if I can get away with it. I know 4600s are meant for stock height but wanted to ask if anyone has experience with the 5th gen springs and if slight lift on 4600s is ok?

I am at 100k for my 5th gen 4runner. I have some major roadtrips coming up and I was reading a few forums to find out what all I should get done at 100K.
I do not have a place where I can change any oil for my car by myself and trying to figure out the best/safest place to get these oil changes done.
I see a bunch of these chains around me like jiffy lube, bigOtires, some other quick oil changers and toyota.
Toyota I would guess have some crazy prices.
Just wondering what you guys think would be the best place to get these done

• differential fluid
• transfer case fluid
• transmission fluid exchange
• brake fluid
• p-steer fluid

Just a quick review of the overland tailor tune. I had mine done with Quoc of tk-421 tuning based out of Santa Ana. Initially I had a sprint booster and I always ran it on Red 1. It was decent but I felt it still lacked enough pick up and I could still feel the gear hunting. After finding multiple forum posts about tunes I came across a video of the OTT from Chloe Kuo on YouTube. I did all my research across both forums of Tacoma and 4Runners, could not find a single bad review with almost everyone saying it feels like a new vehicle and they should have done it sooner. So I went and got it done yesterday. I got the medium version and wow, the pick up is insane. It’s butter smooth shifting, no more gear hunting, super easy to get up and go on the freeway, and incredibly easy to keep up with traffic if they speed up. Passing cars is no problem as well. I’ve seen some questions asked about if it’s just always higher revving or always in higher RPM’s and it does not. I’m only running 87 with more power available if I decide to use 91, but let’s be honest, with current gas prices probably not. I can’t comment on gas mileage yet but the power is much better which was my main focus. My biggest concern was reliability but after speaking with Quoc, he states their main point and focus is to maintain that reliability of Toyota. Can I say whole heartedly that it will remain that way in the future? No, and it’s hard to even prove the tune would have caused X, Y, Z. The 4Runner drives exactly how I want it to now, and 100% feels like a new vehicle.
If you want yours done, look on the OverlandTailor website where they have an interactive map to see if you’re close to a tuner.

Hi everyone, hoping to get some help here. From what I can find online and in Toyota forums it seems like a common and also hopeless issue that even Toyota doesn’t care to fix (properly).
I have a 2020 Nightshade. Had it since birth. Baby it daily. It’s never had any harm done to it.
The front fender has always seemed to have an issue staying “in”. The corners on both sides of the fender pop out ever so much so that you can see a gap where it otherwise should sit flush against the front grill.
The forums online said to grab a Velcro repair kit that Toyota put out as a fix, after having done that through an auto body shop the problem still exists. The fender just won’t line up and stay seated correctly.
A link to other complaints regarding the same issue.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220523-front-bumper-fender-separation-3.html
If any of you geniuses with the Midas touch can offer up a solution that costs less than $1,000 - I’ll be very grateful. My OCD can’t take it anymore.
Thank you!

2004 v6 4Runner
After an oil light came on last night, I checked the oil this morning, and the dipstick was clean. Yikes. When I took off the oil cap, the inside was full of brown foam. I refilled the oil, and googled brown foam. Internet said it might be coolant mixed with the oil.
So I checked the coolant reservoir - empty. Except at the bottom, there was a 2 cubic inch block of coolant colored jelly, filled with metal shavings.
To recap: - foamy brown oil - empty coolant - jelly coolant - metal shavings in coolant jelly
Seems to me like the obvious answer is some part of the coolant system failed and is leaking into the engine, and that failure also created metal shavings in the coolant.
Questions: - is my diagnosis reasonable? - what else could it be? - what’s the most likely culprit? - is it safe to drive, if I top off the coolant? - is it all f*cked?
Thanks!
(Cross posted to the main forum as well)

I know in some of the old forums that a decent chunk of 1st and 2nd fj owners came from a 3rd gen 4runner.
So those who have any input which would be better to have as a manual and daily.
I like that the fj has an extra gear and a newer engine, though the 4runner might be easier to work on since I want to do diy stuff.
Otherwise prices are almost similar between the two with nice 3rd gen 4runner with a manual selling high and a decent fj manual being at the same price or only a bit higher.

Wanted to add my experience in searching for, purchasing, and adding accessories to my new Telluride. I'm hoping a comprehensive post can help those searching in the future. I parsed through a lot of threads on here and the Telluride Forums to come up with my end design.
If you just want to see photos, here is an album with the things I've added since getting it:

https://imgur.com/a/wTLqXSz

Background Information

My family is planning a cross country this summer with our dog, and knew we'd need a bigger vehicle eventually. After looking at SUV rental costs, we decided it'd be better to pull the trigger on something we felt was inevitable anyways. Rental costs for the trip were looking to average around $2,500 for our trip duration.

Car Research & Hunt

We pretty well had it narrowed down to the Telluride based on reviews of previous years and Kia's reputation for interior comfort and tech. My wife also had an Optima that we both really liked. We have two local Kia dealerships and hit both of them up. They both told us they had no Tellurides on the lot, nor available for any upcoming arrivals. One dealer added me to a waitlist in the 90s, but said they'd reach out if any fell through. The other dealer said they would reach out if any deposits fell through.
Over the next couple weeks, I was reached out to once or twice for random deposits that dropped out. After reviewing the window stickers of each, I passed for various reasons. I took this opportunity to better narrow down the trim(s) I was interested in and update the dealerships with my trims of interest. To help me out, this site's compare tool was invaluable:
Compare Kia Telluride LX vs SX vs SX-P X-Pro CarBuzz
I decided I would ideally like an X-Line, but would take an X-Pro as a second choice.
After a few weeks, the smaller dealer reached out and said they had someone pull out of their deposit on an X-Pro Jungle Green. Having not test drove one, or seen Jungle Green in person, I ended up putting a deposit on it ($4,995). Cost would be $54,870, and then they add a $5,995 Adjusted Market Value on top of it. I got them to knock 1k off of that, which kind of surprised me given the demand.

Purchase & Buying Experience

Last Friday after work, I got a call from our sales guy from the smaller dealership saying they had a Dark Moss X-Line show up, whose deposit canceled, and they forgot to disassociate their name from the list. We immediately went over and test drove it. Liked it a lot, and asked if we could move our deposit over. Sure, no problem.
We came back the following day to purchase, around 3:30 PM. They test drive our trade-in and start the paperwork. After about 1.5 hours of haggling (maybe it was 2), we came out to the following: $59,314.50, which includes about $600 for non-removable theft protection and something they call "brake plus".
MSRP: $53,645
ADM: $4,995 (after negotiating knocking 1k off)
Theft Protection: $306.50
Brake Plus: $369
Doc Fee: $399
Title Fee: $14
Tax: $2,382.87
Trade In: $20,000
Down Payment: $22,000 (They would not allow us to put anymore than this, citing the bank would not issue a loan).
They also mentioned paying all cash would add total cost to the vehicle.
This was as painful, or more painful than I expected. By the time we met with Finance to sign the final documents, it had been about five hours. The finance guy was fast, but I would swear time is a tactic they use to get you to sign up for additional services. I wearily stood my ground and declined the additional offerings (paint protection, ceramic, extended warranty, etc).

Accessory Research & Purchases

Knowing I had about a month before the car was supposed to arrive, I started my research on different accessories to add.
Cargo Cover -
Kia Premium Cargo Liner S9H12AP000 – 401 Dixie Kia
The cargo liner from Canada was well worth it. I originally looked at the US version, and Weathertech's. Neither of which split or covered the back of the third row seats.
Car Mats -
Amazon.com: TuxMat - for Kia Telluride 8-Seater 2020-2023 Models - Custom Car Mats - Maximum Coverage, All Weather, Laser Measured - This Full Set Includes 1st, 2nd and 3rd Rows : Automotive
I've been a WeatherTech guy in the past, and almost went with the FloorLiners this time around, but saw a lot of recs for TuxMat, and now I know why! These things are great and get a compliment from everyone that's been in the car so far. The only drawback I could foresee is that I won't be able to run them through the car wash mat washer, which was a nice perk when I had WeatherTechs in previous cars.
Center Console Organizer -
JKCOVER Center Console Organizer Tray Compatible with Toyota 4Runner 2010-2020 2021 2022 2023 and Kia Telluride 2020-2022 Accessories,Insert Armrest Box Secondary Storage ABS Black Materials (amazon.com)
I haven't made a ton of use of this, but I do like that it is divided in multiple places, versus the default single tray. It matches well, which is a nice perk.
Center Console Cover -
Amazon.com: KMMOTORS Telluride(2020~2023) Console Cover, Armrest Cushion, Vegan Leather, Console lid Protector, Anti-Scratch (Black) : Automotive
Saw a lot of recommendations for this. Didn't love the design at first, but it has grown on me. It is very comfortable, and seemed like a no brainer after one time of my dog trying to put his front paws on the underlying leather.
Wireless CarPlay Adapter -
Amazon.com: OTTOCAST Wireless Android Auto Adapter U2-X Pro - Lastest Android Auto CarPlay Car Adapter 2 in 1 for Wired CarPlay Cars,AA Wireless Adapter with Newest System Plug & Play 5G WiFi Faster Connection : Electronics
One of the drawbacks to the car is the lack of native wireless CarPlay. This adapter does a pretty good job for a third-party device. My wife and I each have our phones paired to it, and it does a good job with different model iPhones. My only gripe so far is that there is a ~1s delay when it comes to skipping songs, or fast forwarding from the phone.
Seat Cover For Pets -
PETICON Waterproof Front Seat Car Cover, Full Protection Dog Car Seat Cover with Side Flaps, Nonslip Scratchproof Captain Chair Seat Cover Fits for Cars, Trucks, SUVs, Jeep (amazon.com)
I originally looked at the WeatherTech custom cover, but opted to try this cheap $22.99 option first. The bottom side flaps don't fully cover the captain chair sides, but that doesn't seem to be an issue. The dog seems to do just fine sitting there, so far. I am weighing the option of adding some type of storage on the side, or in front of the captain seat to give the dog a little more space to sit/lay down.
Door Protector For Pets -
Bushwhacker® - Vehicle Door Protector for Dogs - Sold as Pair - (27" x 17") Car Door Scratch Guard K9 Truck Back Shield Pet Side Panel Cover Back Seat Sedan SUV (amazon.com)
I've been happy with the 27x17 version so far. In past vehicles, the ones I had used cheap plastic tabs that seemingly fell out easy. When looking at the pricier WeatherTech option, that seemed to be a common complaint, as well. This model uses what appear to be metal stakes that go inside of the windshield. So far, I haven't seen any scratches or marks on the window itself to indicate these stakes are problematic. And, the leather under the cover looks unscathed while supporting the front half of a 70lb dog.
Screen Protector -
Screen Protector Screen ProTech Automotive Screen Protection
The Infotainment Screen is massive, and I've personally always used screen protectors on my phones. I found a couple people had mentioned these custom ones from a company called Screen ProTech. Pricey, but I have been very happy with the quality material, along with instructions (written and video) to apply seamlessly. It covers both the standard dash display, along with the infotainment in one long strip. It also included a second small strip to cover the climate control displays in the middle.
Car Seat Seat Protector -
Lusso Gear Car Seat Protector for Child Car Seat, Non-Slip Waterproof Car Seat Protector for Leather Seats with Thick Padding and 2 Mesh Storage Pockets, Baby Seat Protectors Under Carseat (Black) (amazon.com)
I didn't think about this originally, but saw the potential leather damage after one night of having the car seat in place. The padded layer of this cover seems like it will help keep the leather's form, and it also looks nice with different color options.
Adjustable Cup Holder -
Amazon.com: 2 Pack Car Cup Holder Expander for car Expander Expandable Bottles,Organizer Adapters Holders Universal Compatible with 2.6" to4.5 diameters and Most 12 to 46 Ounce Bottles&Cups : Automotive
My wife and I regularly use the large sized 45oz shaker cups (Blender Bottle Pro), which are about 3.5" in diameter at the base. We tried another set before landing on these, and ultimately went with these because both the top and base are adjustable. Now we can adjust the top to snugly fit something as small as a can or water bottle, and as large as our cups.
Retractable USB C Cable For Phone Charging-
USB C to Retractable Lightning Cable 4FT, 2Pack [MFi Certified] iPhone 14/13/12/11 Fast Charging Cord Type C iPhone Charger Cable for iPhone 14 13 12 11 Pro Max/Pro/Mini Xs Xr X 8 Plus 8 7 6s 6 5 se (amazon.com)
The car has USB C ports everywhere. I don't care for unsightly, overly long cables strewn about. This sits perfectly on top of the CarPlay adapter, and seems to do a good job charging and retracting as needed.
PPF, Ceramic & Windshield Protection -
I am scheduled to have this done by a reputable third party vendor. I have never had this done before. I'll try to remember to update this post afterwards. They use Stek.
$2,600
Tint -
I am having this done later today. I am having 3M Ceramic on all windows. Planning for 15% on the front, then letting them determine the amount to match the factory tinted rear windows.
edit - They were out of 3M Ceramic. I settled for American Standard (ASFW). 15% on drivepassenger, and I believe they added 35% to the back. Added two photos to above imgur album.
$425

Setting Changes

Some settings that I have modified from the default.
Auto Comfort Control (Settings -> Seat -> Heated/Ventilated Features) - EnabledWill automatically enable/disable heated seats/steering wheel based on set temperature inside the vehicle.
Quantum Logic Surround Sound (Setup -> Sound) - Enabled
Improves the sound, at least for music, throughout the car.
Start-Up Volume Limit (Setup -> Sound -> Premium Sound) - Enabled
This prevents you starting the car with blaring music, when the last driver was jamming and forgot to turn it down before exiting the vehicle.
Reduce the number of voice recognition prompts (Setup -> Voice Recognition) - Enabled
Self-explanatory. The excess prompts are not really needed after using the Voice Recognition system a handful of times.
Powerlift Proximity Auto Open/Close (Setup -> Vehicle) - Enabled
Super handy when your hands are full and approach the vehicle.
Rear Occupant Alert (Settings -> Convenience) - Disabled
On nice days, I leave the dog in the back with the window down while I run into the grocery store, for instance. This prevents an alarm going off if movement is detected after you've left the vehicle.
Smart Cruise Control Sensitivity (Setup -> Vehicle -> Driver Assistance -> SCC response) - Fast
Vehicle speed to the vehicle ahead to maintain the set distance is faster than normal/default speed. This prevents sluggish acceleration from a stop while SCC is in use.

Thoughts 1+ Week In

Both my wife and I agree this is hands down the best vehicle we've had. The interior and tech make it feel like a true luxury vehicle in just about every aspect. We love the Terracotta interior, and soft "velvet" material on top.
- The ride is extremely smooth, and the "Smart" driving option makes adjustments based on driving habits, toggling between a fuel efficient "ECO" mode, or "Comfort", or "Sport" mode.
- One of the few downsides is gas mileage. We have yet to see 20 MPG after about 250 miles, but have done very limited driving on the freeway.
- The Kia Connect app is pretty awesome, allowing me to remote start it without the key. Or, start it with custom climate settings, such as only starting it with the drivers heated seat on, and heated steering wheel.
- The Smart Cruise Control works very well. I had this in my previous vehicle and it's comparable. Not fully autonomous, but useful for long stretches of road.
- The blind spot detection and cameras are wild. The rear-view mirror is, by default, a permanent camera fixed behind the vehicle. The quality is great, and almost feels like you're invading people behind you's privacy. This can be turned off with the flip of a mechanism on the bottom of the mirror. Separately, the large infotainment system has a split view of your surroundings when in reverse. The left half shows your rearview camera, while the right side shows a top-down view of a graphic imitating your vehicle backing up.
- The massive infotainment system itself is awesome and contains an almost overwhelming amount of settings. You can configure a second profile for another driver, along with custom seat settings for each.
- The interior is littered with USB-C ports, and one outlet in front of the 2nd row (bottom of center console). Plenty of spots to charge devices.
- I am personally not a fan of the ISG (Idle Stop & Go) System, where the engine shuts off while the car is stopped. It can be disabled, but I haven't been able to find a way to permanently turn it off. It is re-enabled the next time the car is started. Conversely, I do love the auto hold where I can safely let go of the brake pedal at a stoplight. Just a convenience feature I never expected to enjoy.